A journey along the former Iron Curtain, made of stages, some chosen by precise strategy, others by chance, as often happens to those who travel. Each stage is marked by two pictures, one looking West and one East, to discover what the landscapes "beyond" and "on this side" of the curtain look like today, who lives there, and what social innovation or regression has taken place in places once guarded and inaccessible. The itinerary ends in Berlin, where the author tried to gather the atmospheres of the past in faces, landscapes, lights and houses. A travel diary along an uneven and emblematic route, a journey into memory for all of us, children of a Europe once divided that still struggles to find real unity.